For millennia, people have sustainably sourced from their environment to make clothes that not only serve a functional purpose, but also serve as beautiful representations of identity, culture and self-expression.
The roots of ‘sustainable fashion’ are not, as is claimed, found in the hippie and punk culture of the mid-60s and early-70s. The counterculture movement that challenged mass production and sought to return to natural and handmade products began in the 60s and created a slow awakening in the West about the impact of the global garment industry on people and the planet. However, as always, history did not begin with the ‘enlightenment’ and industrial revolution.
As Muslims, we might describe sustainable fashion as an expression of Taqwa (God-consciousness). It is mindfulness and accountability for the good and the bad that results from how our clothes are made, treated and passed on.
When considering the sustainability of our clothes, it’s important to understand the complex and devastating effects of the global fashion industry on both people and the planet. Less than 2% of the 75 million people working in garment factories around the world make a living wage, working up to 16 hours a day, 7 days a week, risking their personal health and safety amidst rampant abuse and exploitation. Child labour is common, with 51 countries reported to be using child labour in the garment industry, and slave labour is shockingly suspected as being used in the production of $147.9 billion worth of garments and $12.7 billion worth of textiles imported by G20 countries annually.
The overproduction and overconsumption of fashion is creating devastating environmental impacts. A McKinsey and Company study found that by 2030, it is estimated the fashion industry will consume resources equivalent to two Earths, with the demand for clothing forecast to increase by 63%. The fashion industry is responsible for 8-10% of global carbon emissions, 20% of global waste water, and an unprecedented microplastic and chemical pollution crisis that is affecting not just our water systems but also our food chain.
For many of us, the genocide in Gaza has forced our attention towards the systemic and interconnected nature of injustices around the world. It has opened our eyes to the true cost of our consumerist lifestyles that are built on the exploitation of the world’s vulnerable. We have begun to reassess how we spend our money, as we seek to boycott and punish brands supporting genocide. Many of us are connecting the dots and deciding that it is time to also divest from these toxic global industries which are not only destroying the world but our relationship with our Creator.
We pray this guide is a practical reference for your journey towards sustainable fashion. Read on for first-hand advice on how to start, key things to consider, and practical tips on building a more ‘taqwa-centred’ sustainable wardrobe.
Strategies for Building a Sustainable Wardrobe
1. Understanding The Value of What You Already Own
It can feel tempting to purge your old ways and start anew if you’re thinking about creating a sustainable wardrobe, similar to seasonal purges where we clear out our wardrobes to make space for new trends and styles. However, the first step to building a sustainable and affordable wardrobe is putting a pause on buying anything new and understanding the value of what you already own.
A sustainable wardrobe has pieces that bring intentionality, purpose and value in your life. With different lifestyles, daily activities and values, our sustainable wardrobes can look quite different to others. It’s important to take time to reflect on how your wardrobe can best serve you, and importantly how it can align with your values, so you can feel comfortable, confident and authentic in your clothes.
Once you’ve figured out what kind of clothes you need, you can start sorting through them and categorising, the aim being to keep as much as you can from what you own before thinking about adding anything else.
If you do need to clear things out, pass on good quality items to others who might get more use from them, donate to a charity shop, or sell them to/on pre-loved websites.
2. Give your clothes a longer life!
We invest time, money and even love into the clothes we buy, so it only makes sense to preserve their lifespan. There is a lot we can do to help our clothes last longer, from how often we wash them and how we store them, to learning to repair and make alterations can all save us money and mean we can hold onto our clothes for longer. Here are a few tips on where to start.
- Buy less and store correctly. It’s simple, the more you have the harder it is to store your clothes properly. Cramming clothes together can cause the fibres to become damaged, lose shape, and even develop mould or mildew from lack of breathing room. Different pieces and fibres have their own storage requirements and it’s important to learn what these are. For example, you should avoid hanging heavy knitwear at all costs as it will cause them to lose their shape.
- Wash considerately. Every piece of clothing comes with its own instructions on how to care for the item. It’s important to follow this and consider washing them less frequently while using lower temperatures, even cold washes, as higher temperatures can cause garments to become damaged and wear out much quicker.
- Revive the sunnah and mend your own clothes. Basic sewing skills should probably be an essential life skill, given how easily most clothes made by fast fashion brands tear and how expensive repair and alteration services can be. Many of us will have fond memories of watching our mums and aunts bring out their ‘Singer’ or ‘Brother’ sewing machines to mend or alter our clothes, and make our Eid attire! However if sewing is not for you, you can still make use of the many mend and repair services around London.
- Sojo – A UK-wide online tailoring and repairs service with inhouse and specialised tailors that will repair or alter any item of clothing and drop it back to you.
- Your local tailoring shop or dry cleaners will often offer alteration and repair services
- Find a Repair Cafe. These are community-led initiatives around the UK where local volunteers with a variety of mend and repair skills offer their services.
- Reach out to a relative or friend with sewing know-how!
3. Create a Timeless Wardrobe Reflecting your Style and Values
The most sustainable wardrobes tend to be those that have high quality timeless pieces that can adapt to different trends, and more importantly, capture your individual style. It’s important to invest a little in these, whether it’s money or time spent thrifting to find the right things.
Classic pieces like ethical t-shirts and flowing dresses or abayas that can be layered together, a crisp white shirt, or a pair of quality denim jeans that can serve as the foundation for a wardrobe will stand the test of time.
“Remember to keep it versatile, and buy clothes that can be mixed and matched. Your staple colours – whether neutrals or bolder tones, classic cuts, and timeless designs that will let you create multiple outfits from a few pieces, making the most of your wardrobe.” – Zinia Khan, Ethical Fashion Designer and Co-Founder of Ardh
Quality over quantity is key. Invest in well-made, and ethically-made (tayyib) clothes that will last longer and come with the peace of mind that no one was hurt in their making, even if they cost a bit more upfront. These pieces will save you money in the long run because they won’t wear out quickly and need to be replaced. You’ll also find yourself creating a more meaningful attachment to your clothes as they journey with you through the different seasons of your life.
Many ethical brands are now offering made-to-order services to align with a slow fashion ethos, this can make it easier to dress modestly by co-creating pieces that are tailored to not only fit you perfectly but also allow you to dress modestly. Check out these modest, sustainable and slow fashion brands:
- WearFair has an elegant but edgy collection, and I’m in love with these palazzo pants.
- Hanm is an ethical and sustainable hijab brand with a great variety of sustainable materials, I have the Full Coverage Undercap in various colours with matching hijabs and these are my go-to’s for loose layering in the summer.
- Other brands to check out are Nea Wear for sustainable modest fashion, and Fayéna for sustainable and modest prayer wear.
Creating a sustainable and timeless wardrobe doesn’t mean you can’t stay on-trend or try new things. You can always incorporate current fashion trends by simply adding accessories like statement jewellery or a trendy bag to elevate a classic outfit, or mixing textures, patterns, and colours for a contemporary edge. Organising a mini clothes swap with friends is another fun way to keep your wardrobe fresh.
4. How to know if something is really sustainable
It’s easy to fall into the greenwashing trap. Many of us carry a sense of guilt and need to do right by the world, and might consider paying extra to buy from a big brand’s ‘conscious collection’. However brands often make misleading claims about their sustainability standards or create isolated collections that are more sustainable for good PR meanwhile continuing to operate as business as usual in all other ways. Good on You and Ethical Consumer are excellent sources for checking a brand’s ethical standards if you’re unsure.
If you’re worried about the sustainability or ethics of different fibres, and want to know which ones to avoid, here’s a quick useful guide to get you started. The global supply chain is complex, and natural fibres believe it or not are not always better than synthetic. For example, conventionally grown cotton on an industrial scale is not only bad for the environment because of the land, energy and water it requires, but is also associated with unethical labour practices. Much of the world’s cotton comes from the Uyghur region, where the Chinese government is ethnically cleansing the Uyghur Muslim minority whilst exploiting them through forced labour. It’s best to do your research before committing to anything!
5. Why it’s important to shop from and support sustainable fashion brands by the global majority
While there are many more options for sustainable clothing in the UK today, let’s be honest, mainstream sustainable fashion brands can be quite unaffordable for the majority of people, as they often target wealthier segments of European and American customers and not the global majority. If we want to see sustainable fashion become more diverse and affordable, we have to find and support ethical brands by the global majority.
There are a growing number of brands creating high quality sustainable fashion that is rooted in heritage and designed with the cultural, religious and social needs of diverse people in mind. To help build and support a movement of these brands, Ardh – a directory of ethical brands from the global majority, will be launching an extensive list later this year. In the meantime you can find vetted brand recommendations on their Instagram page.
The push for sustainable fashion is becoming stronger among Muslim-owned global majority fashion brands too. During Istanbul Modest Fashion Week in 2019 models held up placards with the slogans “Green is the new black” and “Ethical is the new normal” walking down the catwalk in designs by Rabia Zargarpur. Aneesa Zaman, a UK-based designer for modest swimwear label Sei Sorelle cites her duty as a “custodian of the Earth” as a major motivator for her brand, which she says is the first modest swimwear company in the United Kingdom to adopt sustainable practices.
However many sustainable fashion brands from the global majority struggle to survive let alone grow, they desperately need a committed and loyal customer base that creates the demand for their products – which is why it is crucial that we show up and shop from them.
6. Immerse yourself in a world of sustainable fashion alternatives
Up to 100 billion garments are produced by the fashion industry every year. And each year, as much as 92 million tons of good condition or never even worn clothing ends up in landfills. The fashion industry and consumers are finally waking up to this reality and the result is a rise in businesses promoting a circular economy and a significant shift in attitudes towards getting creative with our wardrobes.
Thrifting, swapping, lending and upcycling are all excellent and practical ways to build a sustainable wardrobe or incorporate new trends.
Thrifting
For most of us growing up, buying second-hand carried a huge stigma as generally no one advertised shopping at a charity shop. Luckily this is no longer the case as awareness about environmental concerns, technology, and even the desire to shop cost-effectively has led to a rise in trendier charity shops, pre-loved shopping sites and app-based platforms.
A few places to start:
- Vinted – buy or sell anything from ‘new with tags’ to ‘well used’ items, and buy multiple items from one seller to save on shipping costs. Filter to save time and find exactly what you need.
- Depop – similar to vinted, with more high-end and vintage items.
- Thrift+ – a curated online marketplace for pre-loved fashion..
- Charity Shops – have become more popular with the return of vintage fashion. The increased demand has led to higher prices, however the vast majority are still more affordable than the high street, and often well-curated to improve your thrifting experience! Here are some tips on how to navigate them:
- Explore charity shops in different parts of London, and pin the ones you like so you know to return when you’re in the neighbourhood. Visiting more regularly will increase your chances of discovering some great finds!
- Go in with a clear idea of what you want, and sift through with patience looking beyond labels to focus on quality and fit rather than brands.
- Don’t be afraid to get creative with thrifted items. Simple alterations or upcycling projects can transform a find into something unique and tailored to your style.
Rent or lend your wardrobe
Online clothing rental services are making it easier to borrow clothes from a wider pool of people, and look for exactly what you need. This makes it easier to hold back from splurging on that dress you know you’ll only wear once, because you can rent it for a fraction of the price when you need it.
A few popular ones to check out are:
- My Wardrobe HQ – for high-end fashion rentals
- John Lewis Fashion Rental Service – good for occasion-wear, when you need something special but don’t want to spend big.
- Hurr – rent and/or lend everyday clothes to occasion wear – How great would something like this be for wedding or Eid outfits?
- Littleloop and others like it allow you to rent and swap kids clothes as often as you like with a monthly subscription – so no more wardrobe clear-outs every 3 months to a year!
Upcycling and Swapshops:
- Upcycling: Get to know your local sustainability networks and groups. Chances are you’ll find some great local workshops where you can try your hand at upcycling an old piece or learning creative techniques for how to spruce up your wardrobe. This super cute trend of embroidery art on jeans has really taken off recently and is beautiful! So has mending thin spots and tears in your clothes with embroidery or patches. The possibilities are really endless.
- Set Up a Swap with friends or family – whatsapp group, or an excuse to get together. In particular around Eid or other celebrations, when you’re looking for occasion wear, swaps can be highly practical and save you a lot of money!
Instagram Accounts to follow for:
1. Sustainable fashion inspiration
2. Education
- The Sustainable Fashion Forum
- The Slow Factory
- Oh So Ethical
- Sustainably Muslim
- Faithfully Sustainable
Transitioning to a sustainable wardrobe is not a quick or easy process, however every small step counts and brings you closer to living in a way that aligns with your values. Start with what you can, and gradually incorporate more sustainable practices into your shopping habits. “The most beloved of deeds to Allah are those that are most consistent, even if it is small.” (Bukhari). Your choices matter, and together, we can create the demand for a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry for everyone.
Shanza Ali
Shanza is the Co-founder of Ardh – a platform for culturally diverse ethical brands. Shanza is passionate about co-creating a new 'culture of sustainability' that centres the knowledge and experiences of culturally diverse people in the sustainability movement and ethical market. Shanza is an international development consultant who has spent 10 years working at the intersections of youth empowerment, climate and gender justice around the world. She has crafted policies, led campaigns and developed programmes that help to ensure gender and climate-led education, health and employment opportunities
