Amidst the countless videos of content creators brandishing their latest buys and listing their recommendations of the month online, a new trend has gripped the internet – underconsumption core.

It is a younger, cooler version of minimalism with those taking part in it overwhelmed and exhausted by rampant over-consumerism, fast fashion and short-lived trends.

Some are even sharing their “project pan” journeys, which involve “hitting the pan” or reaching the end of their product, typically cosmetics, before purchasing any new ones.

Tens of thousands of people are sharing their experiences with it online, using social media platforms and the audiences they have amassed on TikTok and Instagram to hold them accountable for their shopping habits.

While the idea behind it may seem fairly obvious, and consuming products at a normal rate is hardly groundbreaking, some have shared their experiences of ending up in debt due to the seemingly endless pressure to buy new things and struggling to escape content which naturally influences them to shop.

How the Trend is Rooted in Islam

The core principles of the trend align with Islamic teachings that encourage Muslims to live sustainably, ethically, and with economy and efficiency. Being a ‘Khalifa’ or a steward of the earth and its resources is a key principle in Islam, with Muslims believing that they are given the duty by God to be responsible for the environment. Being neither extravagant nor stingy is also a key lesson in the Qur’an where Muslims are taught they should be moderate in their spending.

Allah ﷻ says, “They are those who spend neither wastefully nor stingily, but moderately in between.” (Surah Al-Furqan 25:67)

A key lesson here is being aware of your consumption and finances as well as living within your means. Garments are referred to multiple times in the Qur’an, with covering ourselves considered an act of worship and clothing considered a blessing or gift from Allah.

“O children of Adam! We have provided for you clothing to cover your nakedness and as an adornment. However, the best clothing is righteousness. This is one of Allah’s bounties, so perhaps you will be mindful.” (Surah Al-A’raf 7:26)

The Prophet ﷺ also had a special relationship with his clothing. Many ahadith reference specific garments, the du’a he would recite when wearing something new, and how attentively he wore and cared for his clothing.

Being able to refer to each clothing item offers a glimpse into the rate of consumption at the time – which contrasts significantly with how many of us shop today. How many of us can name each item in our closet, and have them part of our weekly rotations?

Muslims are also discouraged from israaf and tabtheer, the former meaning extravagant spending on permissible items such as cars you can’t afford or lavish celebrations, and the latter meaning spending huge sums on impermissible items or spending money that was not earned according to Islamic values.

In a climate where many feel pressured to buy the latest trends and releases, it can be helpful to remember that Islam discourages waste, as mentioned in the Qur’an,

“O Children of Adam! Dress properly whenever you are at worship. Eat and drink, but do not waste. Surely He does not like the wasteful.” (Surah Al-A’raf 7:31)

This can be understood as not consuming more than is sufficient for you, or spending in an extreme way making it unlawful.

Extravagance in spending can look different for people depending on their finances and how much they can afford. For example, if dropping a huge sum of money on something permissible will not affect your finances and is not wasteful, then it may not be considered extravagant. However, if someone is struggling financially or has to borrow money and is spending large amounts on things they don’t need, this could be determined extravagant.

The Rise of the Haul Culture

The rise and popularity of ‘haul’ culture on platforms such as YouTube, Instagram and TikTok is believed by many to be the main culprit which has gradually caused people to feel inundated with material things, all promising to make them look younger, cooler and more beautiful.

‘Hauls’ as they are dubbed online, involve influencers showcasing and reviewing large quantities of items they have purchased. In some videos, creators even apologise for the video being “short” due to not having much to show.

‘Unboxing’ videos have also amassed tens of thousands of views. These clips often capture creators sharing the satisfying thrill of peeling back packaging to reveal the item they have purchased, further fuelling temptation.

To break free from the temptation of the latest shopping hauls on social media, a good starting point may be to unsubscribe from promotional e-mails and unfollow content creators luring you into swiping your bank card. Deleting shopping apps off your phone may also help avoid being convinced to buy an item in every colour or browse the ‘new-in’ section when you’re bored. Without temptation and the urge to check out the sales while doing quick arithmetic on how much you will be saving (hint, you won’t be if it is an item you didn’t need anyway), there’s more space for mindful reflection on spending habits. The need for this reflection is especially pressing in today’s economic climate.

In July 2022, global inflation reached its highest levels since the mid-1990s according to the World Bank. Rising living costs have forced many people worldwide to ponder on their spending habits and make cuts where possible.

More young people are also experiencing climate anxiety and expressing feelings of powerlessness, helplessness and guilt over their future and climate change. The UK Government Environmental Audit Committee said people in the UK throw away 300,000 tonnes of clothes annually, while around 95% of this can be reused in another way.

There are many ways to avoid filling up landfills, specifically when it comes to clothes. One of the easiest methods to reduce waste is to get creative and re-style items you already own instead of buying new ones for every occasion.

If you feel like you need a wardrobe revamp, clothes swapping with friends and family or shopping second-hand are more sustainable solutions to consider. When it is eventually time to shop again, checking the composition of an item should be a priority. By doing this, you are more likely to avoid cheap fabrics that pill, snag or disintegrate easily. Natural fibres, such as wool, cotton and linen will have a longer shelf-life and feel better on your skin compared to polyester or acrylic materials. No matter what method you use, the goal is to avoid waste and overconsumption.

As some creators encourage their followers to join them in a “no-buy year”, others list all the items they are “de-influencing” from. More are rattling off “all the items you do not need,” including items that have been trending online, while others share a detailed plan for the rules of their no-buy year.

Mia Westrap, a creator with over 50,000 followers has become a champion of the latter, breaking down her pay-day routine for her followers. Some of her rules for saving money and consuming less include getting a library card, cancelling subscriptions she doesn’t regularly use and cutting down on beauty treatments that aren’t essential to her.

Tired of Being Sold To

New York-based creative director and content creator Elysia Berman is one of many who are participating in a no-buy year, outlining her rules with the over 170,000-strong audience she has garnered on TikTok. Her videos regularly rack up a high number of views, with some of them having been watched over 1.7 million times. She has over time become the face of the trend. Speaking to Amaliah, she said in the US many people are feeling burdened by excessive shopping due to a cost-of-living crisis.

“Opting out of shopping is a way for the consumer to regain some control of their money in a world where everything costs more than people can afford,” she said. “I think people are also tired of constantly being sold to,” she added.

Shopping hauls, which started in the early 2000s, coincided with a rise in influencers being able to make content creation a full-time job. Replacing traditional TV ads, sponsored posts and hauls on social media meant that some creators were paid up to thousands of pounds for a single post showcasing a particular brand.

UK content creator Noorie Ana shared that she was able to quit her full-time 9-5 job after sharing outfit posts online. This later led to paid collaborations with brands that allowed her to live a luxurious lifestyle.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, disposable income coupled with people being confined to their homes and a more user-friendly online shopping experience resulted in increased spending. This period significantly changed e-commerce, as business owners realised their vast potential and invested heavily in digital public relations, search engine optimisation, and brand ambassadors. Next-day, and in some cases, same-day delivery services, along with brands collaborating with big names in the industry, fuelled people’s shopping habits even further.

The pandemic also revealed an interesting pattern: Some people turned to shopping when they were feeling bored, lonely or upset. This behaviour highlights how emotional states can influence spending habits.

Berman shared her motivation for participating in a no-buy year, “I had debt and out-of-control spending habits that needed to be reigned in,” noting that “desperate times call for desperate measures.”

She explained that while the trend is popular now, she sees “a lot more people doing it as a way to regain financial autonomy.” It has already made her more mindful of her habits and given her a sense of financial stability.

In many videos, people express genuine exhaustion from struggling to keep up with trends and maintaining a consumerist lifestyle. Originally influencers and content creators were seen as more relatable compared to TV stars and celebrities. However, they soon became equally out of touch with the realities many experience.

“Move away from over consumerism…do not let capitalism win. I am getting rid of a lot of my fast-fashion clothes and clearing out my wardrobe. I don’t like having things I don’t wear…I am so tired of having to buy a new outfit for every event. You literally don’t need to,” financial content creator Fis said in one of her TikTok videos.

Education plays a key role in addressing over-consumption. There is a plethora of content available online, helping people understand the impact of fast fashion on the environment as well as the terrible working conditions faced by garment workers in the Global South.

Once you understand the process involved in creating clothing, technology, or cosmetics, you are less likely to toss them aside the moment the novelty of unwrapping them wears off. This education can also extend to financial literacy and better budgeting, which can be a game-changer for many. Like Berman, scores of people say it has forced them to reflect on their relationship with shopping and their consumption habits.

Much of what is being shared under the hashtags and in videos includes using up a product until it finishes, stripping back your make-up routine and investing in high-quality clothing that will last rather than cheaper alternatives which will likely end up in landfill months later.

Like many issues people face, the first step is to acknowledge certain habits before trying to address them. While it may seem like a daunting task, tackling it in small steps can be a great start. Try identifying and reflecting on your current shopping patterns which can be critical in making more mindful choices. Ask yourself these questions before purchasing:

Are you trying to prove something to someone?
Is it a need or a want?
Can you afford it?

Noting down things you want and reviewing them after some time can help you avoid impulse shopping. Many people find that weeks later, they no longer want the item they had initially jotted down. More importantly, training yourself to save for an item rather than seeking the instant gratification of next-day delivery can help you develop better financial habits and a more intentional approach to consumption. It’s also important to note that no two peoples’ journeys will be the same, as for some it may be only buying new technology when theirs no longer works, while for others it could be to stop shopping completely for a period.

Whether you choose a no-buy year or a de-influencing one, know that we each have a role to play when it comes to protecting the environment and consuming in a way that is just, sustainable and that does not come at the cost of others or the world we live in.

The subject has been covered well by giants in the industry, particularly in books such as Fashionpolis by Dana Thomas and How to Break Up with Fast Fashion by Lauren Bravo. Both inform on the perils of fast fashion and how you can change your mindset when it comes to purchasing clothing. The books also contain insights from experts and activists as well as how the fashion industry has long exploited labour, the environment and intellectual property.

In a world where social media has made individuality plummet due to people being eager to copy trends online, the rise in people sharing their underconsumption journeys has helped many regain their creativity and unique expression of style. Next time you’re scrolling through TikTok and come across an underconsumption core video and you decide to finish up that bottle of cleanser before you buy a new one, perhaps take a moment to ponder on the Islamic lessons that can be learnt and implemented in the process.

Nadda Osman

Underconsumption Core: How This Latest Trend Is Rooted in Islamic Values